Soé: the Japanese-inspired table you can’t live without

Nestled in the heart of the Marais district, Soé is a unique Japanese-inspired restaurant. Open since this summer, the restaurant is tucked away in a discreet street, offering a peaceful atmosphere conducive to culinary escape.

Immersion in the Soé experience

Owner Paul Grillo designed the restaurant with his former cooking school classmate Nicolas Santamaria. Together, they have created a French interpretation of the izakaya, a Japanese concept where people drink and share food in a relaxed, French bistro-style atmosphere. Soé offers a perfect fusion of French elegance and Japanese refinement.

The izakaya is a pillar of Japanese culture. Often frequented in the evening, they offer alcoholic beverages, mainly sake and shōchū. The particularity of these establishments lies in their conviviality.

Quality and seasonality

Soé’s menu changes every two weeks, reflecting the season and the chefs’ inspiration. During our visit, we were impressed by the originality of the dishes. As an aperitif, the Tra Khai cocktail, made with 3S house shōchū Aokage 41, smoked green tea and umami bitter, was a real taste revelation. The subtle flavors of sake and green tea create a surprisingly balanced blend.

For starters, we were delighted with Soé’s autumnal twist on sweet miso eggplant (Soé’s signature dish). The variation in textures around the white miso, with its crunchy tuile, caramel and frothy emulsion, is particularly apt. For the main course, a rack of piglet from the north of France was accompanied by a sautéed julienne of Jerusalem artichokes and a bed of turnips. The remarkable cooking of the meat and the accompaniment of seasonal vegetables made this dish a real success.

Black mullet confit in teriyaki sauce, served with black radish pickles, also left a lasting impression. Each bite revealed a perfect harmony of savory and sweet, underscored by a subtle touch of shiso pesto.

The meal concluded with a refined dessert. An entremet combining black sesame puffed rice cookie, Williams pear mousse and a light verbena glaze. This subtle blend of fruity and floral flavors provided an elegant finishing touch to this gastronomic experience. All accompanied by a glass of umeshū, a Japanese plum spirit with hints of almond.

Every detail counts

In addition to the quality of its dishes, Soé stands out for its choice of spirits. Two possible destinations: France or Asia. So much so that, in addition to a wine list carefully selected by a sommelier friend, you’ll find fine French references such as Bourgouin cognac, Christian Drouin calvados and liqueurs from the young but promising Michellot company, which offers gentian, verbena and génépi. In Asia, we offer a vast catalog of traditional and modern sakes.

As for its ambience, the Japanese floral art of Ikebana is reflected in every detail. From the bouquets on the tables to Paul’s own photos of his travels in Asia, the decor is meticulously thought-out. Even the small details, such as the doorframes crafted by the Compagnons du devoir or the stained-glass window created by Paul’s sister, reinforce the place’s casual chic character. After the meal, we were offered an infusion of fresh verbena. This was sourced from a vegetable garden near Paris, confirming Soé’s commitment to using local, quality produce.

Soé, 18 rue Beautreillis, 75004, Paris, 01 40 24 54 09.

Don’t forget to check out the other must-visit addresses in the Paris Select Book, for even more gastronomic discoveries in the capital.