Olivier Rousteing ushers in a new era at Balmain

For his Fall-Winter 2025-2026 show, Olivier Rousteing marks a turning point in the history of Balmain, with a more streamlined collection where power meets subtlety.

After 14 years at the helm of the house, the French designer chose to return to a more introspective fashion style, faithful to Pierre Balmain ‘s founding codes while injecting a controlled modernity. Presented at the Grande Halle de la Villette, the collection features maximized lines , dramatized shoulders and a refined chromatic palette, punctuated by touches of pop orange and poppy red. More than ever, the Balmain woman embodies a quiet strength, where opulence no longer rhymes with ostentation, but with self-knowledge and personal affirmation.

A wardrobe between elegance and utility

The pieces reflect this tension between classicism and innovation. Cabans, parkas and pants are imbued with utilitarian style, while the play of textures oscillates between the softness of mohair and the power of leather. Experimentation reaches a climax with 3D crocodile-effect dresses, made of resin tiles and micro-pearl embroidery evoking zebra patterns.

A dialogue between heritage and modernity at Balmain

For Olivier Rousteing, this collection is a conversation between two identities: his own and that of Pierre Balmain. There are references to silhouettes from the 50s and 60s, but also a few nods to the 80s. Accessories play a central role: the emblematic Anthem bag is available in comforting materials, accompanied by the Sync with padlock, the strapless Shuffle and thehalf-moon Ebène. Sculptural shoes reinforce this universe, flirting with the idea of wearable art.

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