Martin Margiela auction: an all-time fashion record
On January 27, 2025, Maurice Auction, in collaboration with Kerry Taylor Auctions, organized the largest auction ever devoted to Martin Margiela’s early creations. With a total of 1,889,000 euros, the sale marked a historic turning point in the world of fashion.
A major event in fashion history
The sale, entitled “Martin Margiela, The Early Years”, focused on collections from 1988 to 1994, a pivotal period for the Belgian designer. Over 270 pieces, from the personal collection of Angela and Elena Picozzi, were auctioned, offering a unique insight into Margiela’s revolutionary beginnings.
Some of the designer’s most iconic pieces, such as jackets, draped cotton ensembles and the famous curtain skirt from autumn-winter 1990-1991, captivated collectors and fashion enthusiasts alike. Such was the enthusiasm that the event attracted over 2,000 visitors to the public exhibition on January 25 and 26, in the 11th arrondissement of Paris.
A glimpse into the early days of Martin Margiela
The event revisited one of the most defining moments in contemporary fashion: Martin Margiela’s iconic 1989 fashion show, held in a squat in the 20th arrondissement of Paris. This show, in which models paraded on an improvised catwalk while children ran around them, made a lasting impression and symbolized a bold stylistic revolution.
The sale also included even rarer creations from the early years of Maison Martin Margiela. These models, predating his first fashion show, were the fruit of a collaboration with Deni Cler, a label run by Graziella Picozzi, who had hired Margiela on leaving Jean Paul Gaultier ‘s atelier in 1987.
Among the most sought-after pieces were original paper patterns used for the Spring-Summer 1989 collection, as well as facsimile sketches from Autumn-Winter 1989-1990, rare documents testifying to the genius of Margiela, who refused to send his original sketches to manufacturers.
A cascade of records
The January 27 sale not only broke a record in terms of total amount for a fashion sale in France, it also set a new world record for a piece by Martin Margiela. A black and white wool suit, dating from spring-summer 1990, sold for 101,400 euros, an unprecedented price for a creation by the Belgian couturier.
This exceptional auction illustrates Martin Margiela’s growing popularity in the luxury and vintage markets. His influence, which extends far beyond fashion, continues to inspire new generations of designers, confirming his status as a true legend.
A tribute to the creator in a period of transition
This foray into Margiela’s legacy comes at a key moment for the house that still bears his name. With theannouncement of the departure of John Galliano, who had taken the helm of the house in 2014, the future of the brand is uncertain. The January 27 sale thus rekindled admiration for Margiela’s avant-garde work, underlining the lasting impact of his visionary approach.
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