Peter Copping redefines French chic for Lanvin

For his first show at the helm of Lanvin, British designer Peter Copping brilliantly revisited the timeless codes of Jeanne Lanvin, founder of France’s oldest fashion house. Presented at the Pavillon Gabriel on January 2, 2025, this collection marked a return to the fundamentals, while injecting a bold modernity into a historic house.

A tribute to Jeanne Lanvin

Peter Copping ‘s vision was inspired by the legacy of Jeanne Lanvin, whose elegance and savoir-faire continue to influence contemporary fashion. With 64 looks unveiled, the designer reinterpreted the house’s stylistic signatures. Ribbons, emblems of Jeanne Lanvin’s early creations for her daughter Marguerite, were omnipresent, magnified in almost couture evening gowns. Delicate embroidery and flowing drapery testified to the refinement that has characterized Lanvin for a century.

The collection pays tribute to the Art Deco aesthetic of the 1920s, a key period for the house. At that time, Jeanne Lanvin had abandoned French classicism for sleek, geometric silhouettes. This influence reappeared in the tubular volumes and precise lines of the garments presented by Peter Copping, confirming his desire to inscribe the house in historical continuity.

The reinterpretation of iconic codes

Among the striking details, the color Lanvin blue took center stage. This blue, developed in the Nanterre workshops under the direction of Jeanne Lanvin, was subtly integrated through flowing dresses and knitwear pieces, recalling the house’s strong visual identity. Similarly, the floor of the show featured colorful triangular motifs, echoing the invitations, testifying to a coherent and thoughtful aesthetic.

Copping also knew how to modernize classic pieces, such as the trench coat, giving them a new allure. Each outfit blended craftsmanship and preciousness, while retaining a typically Parisian simplicity.

An intergenerational cast

The choice of models reflected the house’s attachment to its family history. Inspired by Paul Iribe ‘s famous sketch of Jeanne Lanvin and Marguerite, the show featured intergenerational figures, reinforcing the idea of universal, accessible fashion. This subtle wink anchors the brand in an emotional closeness with its public, while celebrating the transmission of values.

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