Lemaire FW 2025: the aesthetics of contrasts in light

Lemaire’s Autumn-Winter 2025 show, presented on January 22 in Paris, illustrates a subtle exploration of contrasts between sobriety and fantasy, tradition and modernity.

A classic palette enhanced by bold touches

Faithful to its identity, Lemaire offers a wardrobe dominated by neutral tones: black, brown, pearl gray and dark blues. However, a surprise appeared in the fourth silhouette: a vermeil-red long skirt with matching tights and pumps. This rare but memorable bright color illuminates the collection, adding unexpected warmth to a season usually marked by restraint.

Varied overlays and textures

Designers Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran continue to play with contrasting textures and cuts. The light silk of “pyjama” suits rubs shoulders with the enveloping wool of long coats, while cotton poplin and thick leather combine to create pieces that are both functional and elegant.

Baroque touches also intrude: a cream puffed skirt, a dress with voluminous sleeves, and trench coats in silver fabric, inspired by the bodywork of 50s cars. These sensual elements blend with the classics of the urban wardrobe, asserting a controlled audacity.

Featured accessories

Lemaire’s signature accessories complete the collection brilliantly. The Croissant bag, the brand’s emblem, returns in multiple variations. The Gear bag, with three pockets, and the Carlos bag, inspired by a scallop shell, illustrate Lemaire’s attention to detail. Finally, the leather scarf tied over the head, blending retro and contemporary influences, lends a unique finishing touch.

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