Soé: the Japanese-inspired table you can’t live without
Nestled in the heart of the Marais district, Soé is a unique Japanese-inspired restaurant. Open since this summer, the restaurant is tucked away in a discreet street, offering a peaceful atmosphere conducive to culinary escape.
Immersion in the Soé experience
Owner Paul Grillo designed the establishment with his former cooking school classmate, Nicolas Sanatamaria. Together, they have created a French interpretation of the izakaya, a Japanese concept where people drink and share food in a relaxed, French bistro-style atmosphere. Soé offers a perfect fusion of French elegance and Japanese refinement.
The izakaya is a pillar of Japanese culture. Often frequented in the evening, they offer alcoholic beverages, mainly sake and shōchū. The particularity of these establishments lies in their conviviality.
Quality and seasonality
Soé’s menu changes every two weeks, reflecting the season and the chef’s inspiration. During our visit, we were impressed by the originality of the dishes. As an aperitif, the Tra Khai cocktail, made with 3S house shōchū Aokage 41, smoked green tea and umami bitter, was a real taste revelation. The subtle flavors of sake and green tea create a surprisingly balanced blend.
For starters, we were delighted with the sweet miso eggplant revisited. The seasonal variation on miso, with its emulsion, caramel tuile and butternut, was particularly well chosen. For the main course, a rack of piglet from the north of France was accompanied by a sautéed julienne of Jerusalem artichokes and a turnip tombée. The remarkable cooking of the meat and the accompaniment of seasonal vegetables made this dish a real success.
Black mullet confit in teriyaki sauce, served with black radish pickles, also left a lasting impression. Each bite revealed a perfect harmony of savory and sweet, underscored by a subtle touch of shiso pesto.
The meal concluded with a refined dessert. An entremet combining black sesame puffed rice cookie, Williams pear mousse and a light verbena glaze. This subtle blend of fruity and floral flavors provided an elegant finishing touch to this gastronomic experience. All accompanied by a glass of umeshū, a Japanese plum spirit with hints of almond.
Every detail counts
In addition to the quality of its dishes, Soé stands out for its choice of spirits. Two possible destinations: France or Asia. In addition to a wine list skilfully selected by a sommelier friend, Soé also offers fine French references such as Marsaillan vermouth, Noilly Prat and liqueurs from the young but promising Michellot company, which offers gentian, verbena and génépi. On the Asian side, you’ll discover a vast catalog of traditional and modern sakes.
As for its ambience, the Japanese floral art, Ikebana, is reflected in every detail. From the bouquets on the tables to Paul’s own photos of his travels in Japan, the decor is meticulously thought out. Even the small details, such as the doorframes crafted by the Compagnons du devoir or the stained-glass window created by Paul’s sister, reinforce the place’s casual chic character. After the meal, we were offered an infusion of fresh verbena. This was sourced from a vegetable garden near Paris, confirming Soé’s commitment to using local, quality produce.
Soé, 18 rue Beautreillis, 75004, Paris, 01 40 24 54 09.
Don’t forget to check out the other must-visit addresses in the Paris Select Book, for even more gastronomic discoveries in the capital.
