Haute Couture Fashion Week: Nicolas Di Felice presents a poetic collection for Jean-Paul Gaultier
On Wednesday June 26, at Fashion Week Haute Couture, Nicolas Di Felice proved what he’s capable of, presenting his new collection for Jean-Paul Gaultier. Focus on these subtle creations.
After Julien Dossena(Rabanne), Chitose Abe(Sacai), Glenn Martens(Diesel and Y/Project), Haider Ackermann, Olivier Rousteing (Balmain), and most recently Simone Rocha… It was the turn of Belgian designer Nicolas Di Felice, Artistic Director of Courrèges, to reveal the full extent of his talent at Jean-Paul Gaultier’s new Haute Couture show.
Since the latter handed over the reins of his eponymous house in 2020, it has invited young designers to bring a renewed vision of Haute Couture. For the Autumn/Winter 2024-2025 season, Nicolas Di Felice has been selected. His mission is to reinterpret Gaultier’s archives and iconic identity. All this while playing with the brand’s emblematic stylistic codes. Namely the marinière, the cone breast, the corset, and many others. And he has risen to the challenge with flying colors!
Nicolas Di Felice x JPG: a successful collection for Fashion Week Haute Couture
For this Haute Couture collection, Nicolas Di Felice wanted to pay tribute to Jean-Paul Gaultier’s aesthetic in all its diversity. He was also inspired by the creations he grew up with in Belgium. Nicolas Di Felice has not drawn his inspiration from a specific collection or period. But rather in Gaultier’s prolific career as a whole. While the initial collections by the man in the sailor suit were rather colorful and maximalist, the Belgian designer has opted for a pure, delicate collection. The chromatic palette is composed of shades of black, white, navy blue and brown.
The 33 silhouettes in the show were absolutely fluid. Transparency adds a touch of sensuality to dresses and unstructured looks. Nicolas Di Felice also highlighted an emblematic Jean-Paul Gaultier element: the famous corset. He had fun reinventing it and adapting it to his own vision.
Floating drape details and veils covering the models’ faces up to the eyes, reminiscent of Gaultier’s 1997 Haute Couture Spring/Summer collections, were also present throughout the show. Did Nicolas Di Felice rise to the challenge? In any case, Jean-Paul Gaultier was won over by the collection. ” You gave it your subtlety and finesse,” he congratulated him after the show.
